From young vines on eroded chalky soils, Spanier’s 2008 Hohen-Sulzer Weissburgunder trocken smells subtly of raw hazelnut and apple blossom. The palate here, too, is understated, but features the combination of creaminess with juicy refreshment that characterizes Pinot Blanc, and in typical 2008 fashion exhibits a lovely sense of lightness and lift, so that one is surprised to note a for this variety more or less normal alcohol of 13%. Discreet finishing nuttiness, herbal pungency, and apple-y fruit complete the picture of a wine that should prove delightfully versatile over at least the next 2-3 years. Oliver Spanier – for a bit about whose distinctive sites and methods see issue 185 – harvested his 2008 vintage Rieslings from mid-October through the first week of November, and reports having performed no de-acidification.Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799