The 2011 Dolcetto d-Alba delivers plenty of varietal character in an old-fashioned, traditional style that is appealing. Dark blue and black fruits, violets, spices and tar flow through to the finish. Hints of reduction that are typical of Dolcetto remain, so readers are best off giving the wine as much air as possible. Otherwise, this is an excellent effort. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. Readers will note a change with these new releases from Luca Roagna. The top Barolo and Barbaresco selections are all being released at the same time, which means there is basically one vintage on the market at a time, rather than the mish-mash of vintages that was previously the custom. Roagna has also stepped up the quality of his corks, which is quite welcome for wines that are meant to age for decades. As always, the winemaking style at Roagna is deeply imbued in tradition. Late harvests, extended macerations and long aging in neutral oak inform wines of great personality. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191