The 2004 Pinot Noir “Sommers Reserve” is a barrel selection of the various vineyards and spent an additional 6 months in oak. It has an expressive nose of toast, vanilla, black cherry and blueberry, with a hint of black olive in the background. This leads to a medium- to full-bodied wine with ample fruit, good depth, and a firm structure well-covered by the fruit. It should evolve for 3-4 years and provide pleasure through 2022. Tel. (503) 375-3068; www.cristomwines.com. Also tasted: 2005 Pinot Gris (81), 2006 Pinot Gris Estate (88), 2005 Viognier Estate (90), 2004 Pinot Noir “Mt. Jefferson” (83), 2003 Syrah Estate (90), 2004 Syrah Estate (92+)

The reserve is strongly herbal, with the tomato leaf character often found in Oregon Pinots. It’s tannic and strong, with a finish that puts the accent squarely on dried herb, leaf and bark, somewhat to the detriment of the fruit. ——P.G.(4/1/2007)—— 87