The 2005 Pinot Noir “Sommers Reserve” is a larger-scaled version of its siblings. It is a masculine yet racy style of Pinot Noir with a big core of fruit to balance the vibrant acidity and ripe tannins. One might think of it as Fred Astaire in a bottle (with Ginger Rogers in there too). Give it 3-5 years and drink it through 2027. (Not yet released) Tel. (503) 375-3068; www.cristomwines.com. Also tasted: 2005 Pinot Gris (81), 2006 Pinot Gris Estate (88), 2005 Viognier Estate (90), 2004 Pinot Noir “Mt. Jefferson” (83), 2003 Syrah Estate (90), 2004 Syrah Estate (92+)