Tasted blind at the Burgfest annual tasting, Collet's 2014 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons has a crisp oyster shell and wet limestone-scented bouquet that opens nicely in the glass. The palate is intense and quite powerful on the entry, a slight viscosity suggesting maybe a touch of botrytised fruit, yet there is impressive depth and concentration here, plus superb tension all the way through to the finish. This is what you might describe as a gutsy Chablis.