The 2005 Passito Sagrantino di Montefalco is simply beautiful in the way it bridges the gap between dry table wine and dessert wine. Red cherries, plums, spices and sweet herbs flow onto the palate in stunning style. The tannins are refined and supremely elegant. Caprai’s passito is one of less-sweet versions of this wine, and in 2005 it is harmonious and absolutely delicious. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. This is another strong set of releases from Marco Caprai, the producer most responsible for calling attention to the potential of Sagrantino in these hillside vineyards. The estate itself is sprawling, and covers 150 hectares of vineyards planted to various densities and trellising systems that clearly show the enormous expense Caprai has undertaken to fully understand the unique qualities of Sagrantino. At the heart of the property is a large, well-appointed visitors’ center and tasting facility that looks more like something out of Napa Valley rather than rural Italy. My tasting at Caprai was remarkable as I had a chance to revisit a number of older vintages, which will be reviewed in a forthcoming article on www.erobertparker.com. Caprai’s wines tend towards the modern end of the spectrum, with French oak used for both malolactic fermentation and aging. The wines often appear tough when young, but with a few years in bottle they can develop beautifully. In the finest vintages, Caprai’s top wines drink well to age 15 and occasionally beyond. Importer: Villa Italia Imports, South San Francisco, CA; tel. (650) 873-6060