The 2004 Parcela al Nogal is a single vineyard bottling made from 100% Tempranillo aged for 22 months in French oak. Inky purple, it offers a brooding, promising perfume of wood smoke, toast, violets, plum, and blackberry jam. It has gobs of sweet fruit, superb integration of oak, tannin, and acidity, layers of flavor, and despite its opulence, manages to be elegant at the same time. It will improve in the cellar for 5-7 years and drink well through 2030. Importer: Antalva Wine Imports, Los Angeles, CA; (310) 695-6260 www.pagodeloscapellanes.com

This rich red delivers plum, cola, briar and spice flavors. It's quite oaky, but has a core of fresh, ripe fruit and enough acidity to keep it lively. The fruity and floral finish lingers nicely. Drink now through 2014. 1,250 cases made, 120 cases imported.??–TM??Region: Spain / Ribera del Duero Select to Add

After finding little to like about the blatantly overripe 2003 El Nogal, the ’04 is a wonderful surprise. Yes, it’s still a ripe, chewy specimen with aromas of prune, smoke, spice cake and leather. But in the mouth it delivers weighty plum, raspberry and cassis but also a delicate wrapping of chocolate and coconut. A lot to ponder, and better sooner than later. Drink now through 2011.——M.S.(11/15/2008)—— 94