The outrageously rich 1999 The Marauder (100% Syrah from the Alban, Stolpman, and Bien Nacido vineyards) is tightly-structured, but crammed with blackberry and cassis fruit infused with subtle notes of camphor and licorice. Full and rich, it is a candidate for 14-18 years of graceful evolution. One of the world's most creative wineries, Sine Qua Non is turning out world-class wines of extraordinary complexity and individuality. Tel. (805) 649-8901

Though, at present, it isn’t quite as powerful as past vintages, the winery’s newest Syrah still shows some classic SQN hallmarks, such as malted-milk and powdered-cocoa aromas and flavors, a smooth mouthfeel and dusty tannins. Smoke, ash and bacon fat notes appear on both the nose and the palate, as does a hint of green herb. Is, as always, an ode to ripe, juicy blackberries.——W.E.(7/1/2002)—— 91