The 2003 Pinot Nero Riserva Mazon is sweet, ripe and opulent yet also very well-balanced. It offers lovely definition in its red cherry Pinot fruit and spice notes, with a supple, generous personality. For the Mazon 75% of the fruit was destemmed and the wine spent two years in oak, the first in small barrels, the second in large barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2015. Proprietor Martin Foradori Hofstatter makes a wide range of wines from his vineyards, which are spread out among several of Alto Adige’s sub-zones. Hofstatter is among the most ardent ambassadors for his region and is capable of talking for hours about his wines and Alto Adige, which he clearly adores. The estate’s top bottlings are all worth seeking out. If there is one criticism to be made, it is that the quality of the entry-level wines could be more consistent. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799