The 2005 Merlot Cold Creek Vineyard is opaque purple-colored with scents of cedar, pencil lead, black currant, blackberry, and a hint of chocolate. This leads to a smooth-textured, balanced wine with ample ripe flavors and good depth. There is enough concealed tannin to support 2-3 years of evolution. It should deliver prime-time drinking from 2010 to 2017. Chateau Ste. Michelle, Washington’s largest winery, continues to demonstrate that being big is not incompatible with high quality. The latest set of releases may be the strongest to date.Tel. (425) 415-3300; www.ste-michelle.com

If you are of the mind that the earthy, saddle leather notes that often signal brett can be a flavor-enhancing feature when well-modulated, as they are here, then you may well feel that this wine should be scored even higher. There is plenty of flavor going on, including tightly structured blackberry and black cherry fruit, and barrel notes that ring in a finish laced with coffee grounds and mocha.——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 88