The 2006 Merlot Cold Creek Vineyard (which contains 22% Cold Creek Cabernet Sauvignon) was aged for 18 months in French and American oak. Purple-colored, it delivers a nose of cedar, cinnamon, violets, black cherry, and black currant. Medium to full-bodied, it is smooth-textured, dense, and well balanced. Lengthy in the finish, it lacks only the complexity which might emerge with another 2-3 years of bottle age. Chateau Ste. Michelle continues to demonstrate that a winery can be large and quality-oriented at the same time. Their current collection is as good as or better than anything it has done in the past. Tel. (425) 415-3300; www.ste-michelle.com

Cold Creek’s 30-year-old vines bring muscle and depth to this wine, which is still a bit jagged, herbal and earthy, though packed with flavors. The winemaker notes that 22% of the blend is Cabernet Sauvignon, added “to soften the tannins”—certainly a reversal of the norm, but indicative of the caliber of the old vine Merlot. Cellarworthy, dense with black cherry fruit, spice and dark chocolate. ——P.G.(12/1/2009)—— 90