The light straw-colored 2004 Riesling The Wolf exhibits abundant notes of honeysuckle and pear along with a hint of grapefruit. Citrusy, with high, tart acidity as well as considerable elegance, this crisp Riesling should be consumed over the next year. Importer: Vine Street Imports, Philadelphia, PA; tel. (215) 533-9463

The citrus component on this Riesling's palate really sings, and its floral/violet and minerally accents are just the right accompaniments. It's dry, clean and very pretty, with good length on the finish. ——D.T.(3/1/2005)—— 89