About as good as it gets in terms of a powerful, fully oaked modern wine that still guards its core identity while offering plenty of straightforward drinking pleasure. San Roman in 2004 is a high-speed train with agile fruit and bracing acidity more dominating than, say, tannic might or alcoholic heat. Among the brave new world of modern wines from Toro this is one of the very best. 6,500 cases produced.——M.S.(6/1/2008)—— 95