Surprisingly, Duboeuf's finest offering from the Pays d'Oc was also his least expensive. The 1998 Syrah is one of the best wines that $6.00 can buy. Its color is extremely dark, and its nose reveals beautifully ripened cassis fruit. This wine verges on sur-maturite. It is crammed with blackberries, dark cherries, and black currants, intermingled with touches of violets. It is concentrated, extracted, and mouth-coating. On the finish, the wine reveals soft, supple tannins, and even more layers of tangy black fruits. Drink this delicious Syrah over the next 3 years.Importers are William Deutsche and Sons Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel (914) 251-9463, and Winesellers Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (847) 679-0121; fax (847) 679-2017.