The 2005 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett smells alluringly of cherry and apple blossoms, offers a lovely palate combination of tart red apple skin, sweet cherry flesh, brown spice and wet stones, and finishes with striking refinement, refreshment and delicacy of floral, apple, citrus peel, and mineral notes. As always with the best wines at this address, one would never guess how much residual sugar it is packing, other than to acknowledge its low alcohol and calculate backwards. “Without high residual sugar, you could not have the delicacy,” opines Zilliken, “and the wine would end up tasting like a Spatlese halbtrocken.” I would pick this Kabinett to gain depth yet hold its freshness for at least a decade. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling ($16.00; 85+?). Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463