Lily of the valley, cherry blossom, and fresh quince scent Zilliken’s 2007 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett, which proceeds to offer the delicacy, vivacity, lift, and liquid floral aspect that characterize so many of the best 2008s, along with transparency to saline, stony, and cyanic fruit pit notes. The finish is long here, but almost like an inhalation, and in any case sends you back avidly for the next snip and sip. A significant portion of this wine, incidentally, represents material picked out ahead of time in parcels designated for Auslese. I would anticipate it remaining delightful for 12-15 years. It might seem hard to believe that Hanno Zilliken could once again out-performed a vintage in the way that he did 2005 and 2006. But his having designated an unprecedented four different wines of the 2007 vintage as auction offerings certainly speaks to his confidence – well-founded, I would say – in the quality of this collection’s top end. The vintage’s “Riesling Butterfly” – stemming largely from Saarburg’s Antoniousbrunnen and Bergschlosschen vineyards (behind the Rausch, and overlooking a tiny Saar tributary) and in only small measure from the Rausch and Bockstein – was reviewed in issue 184 and remains lovely, if at present less generous than there-described. No off-dry generic estate Riesling was bottled this vintage, and with 2008 Zilliken will be seen to have made other changes in the lower half of his price list. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA 800 596 9463

Distinctively oily and petrol-like in aroma, with hints of peaches and minerals. Even the texture is slightly oily, yet this medium-bodied wine finishes clean and fresh. ——J.C.(10/1/2009)—— 89