The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano shows attractive inner perfume in a medium-bodied, accessible style. This is a surprisingly soft vintage for the Santo Stefano Riserva and the wine shows slight elements of dilution that suggest yields may have been a touch too high. Though still a delicious Barbaresco, the 2004 Riserva Santo Stefano could have been so much more than that. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019. Proprietor Italo Stupino continues to ratchet up quality at Castello di Neive. This year I tasted through the entire range and came away most impressed with the Barberas and Barbarescos. The other wines, while certainly correct, weren’t especially exciting. The only real disappointment was the 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano, which falls short of the level of recent vintages. Importers: Bacchanal Wine Imports, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (646) 207-0115; Grassroots Wine Wholesalers, LLC; Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 250-9060; Vintage Selections, Cape Canaveral, FL; tel. (321) 783-2700; West Park Imports, Sharon Hill PA; tel. (610) 532-3039; Castello di Neive MHW Ltd, Manhasset, NY; tel. (516) 869-9170