The estate’s 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano is big, plush and inviting, but also a bit on the heavy side. Aging in French oak has given the 2007 Riserva significant textural depth and volume, but also left the wine with a sense of heaviness that is inescapable. I don’t see the 2007 as built for the long-term, but at the same time, the wine’s open, generous personality will provide plenty of pleasure over the next decade, if not longer. Overall, this is a bit on the monolithic side. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022.
A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620