Starts with leather, aged cheese and other oaky notes, but it settles and unfolds with airing. Smooth, plump and showing a fine mouthfeel, this is a wine that works even if it doesn’t overwhelm. Blackberry, cassis and herbal flavors are nice, and the finish is smooth and tastes of fresh coconut. Drink now thru 2010.——M.S.(12/15/2009)—— 91