The 2005 Santenay Clos Tavennes showed no ill effects of having been hailed on this year, and the minuscule crop indeed was surely a factor influencing the wine’s impressive concentration. Smoky, gamey notes mingled with lightly cooked mulberry, plum and blackberry characterize the nose. A deep richness of black fruits and roasted meat flavors fill the mouth and there is a lot more glycerin and weight than in the Gravieres, as well as an invigorating fruit skin tartness and an expansive, staining finish of black fruits, brown spices, nut oils, raw meat and chalk. Nearly a third of the site is in vines planted in 1920 when Pousse d’Or was still jointly owned with Romanee Conti. Also recommended: 2005 Volnay Caillerets ($104.00; 86+?). In the decade since the ambitious and conscientious Patrick Landanger (who just bought an estate in the Douro, whence he was headed the Sunday we met) purchased Pousse d’Or, he has expanded the holdings to include parcels in Corton and Puligny Caillerets, and made huge investments in the vineyards and cellar. Not surprisingly given nature’s role, the 2005s – which he called unproblematic in every respect – look to set new quality standards for his tenure. Landanger says he was very sparing with punch-downs this year and entirely eschews pump-overs because he never pumps (and thus doesn’t filter either). The wines had just been bottled, and a couple of them appeared to be laboring under the effects of this (or at least of the sulfur administered beforehand). Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861 6800 and a Peter Vezan Selection, Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93