From jeroboam, Cécile Tremblay's 2009 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vines is still on the young side, but I imagine it is drinking superbly from regular bottles. A rich bouquet of black cherries, plums, Asian spices, smoked duck and creamy new oak precedes a plush, pure and expansive wine with a juicy core of fruit, succulent acids and a lingering finish. The polished, ample tannins are classic 2009, but the wine remains very fresh and energetic.

The 2009 Vosne-Romanee Vieilles Vignes is a sleek, fragrant wine that impresses for its energy and persistence. Elegant and polished through to the finish, the Vieilles Vignes shows superb character and tons of personality. Tremblay used 60% stems here. The Vieilles Vignes is a blend of three lieu-dits; Au Communes, Les Jacquemins and Les Rouges du Dessus. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. Cecile Tremblay is one of Burgundy’s emerging young growers. I was very impressed with all of the wines I tasted. Tremblay farms four hectares of vineyards across eleven appellations. She favors lengthy macerations (the 2009s spent 30 days on the skins) with no chaptalization or acidification. The percentage of whole clusters varies from wine to wine and can reach 100% at the grand cru level. The wines stay on the lees with no racking until they are prepared for bottling. New oak ranges from 20% for the village wines to 70% for the Grand Crus. These are striking wines, but there is every reason to believe the best is yet to come from this small, high-quality domaine.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800