From two parcels below the village, Tremblay’s 2005 Vosne Romanee Vieilles Vignes is pungent and alluring in its spicy, musky, truffly, distilled-berry nose. It displays a dense palate amalgam of rich meat stock, saline minerality, and bright, juicy cassis and red raspberry, and finishes bracing and lip smacking in its expression of fresh fruit and minerals. While subtle fungal, forest floor, and carnal elements are omni-present, this represents a fruit-forward and much brighter, luminous personality than one expects from 2005. There is hardly any doubt that more richness and textural refinement will be evidenced once this has rested from bottling, which took place two weeks before I tasted. (The 2004 rendition of this wine, incidentally, represents an excellent introduction to Tremblay’s style and quality – indeed it served as mine.) Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.