The deeply-colored 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico offers tons of dark fruit, spices, chocolate, licorice and menthol. This chunky, rustic Amarone possesses plenty of persistence on the palate and will appeal most to readers who appreciate traditionally made wines. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. Importer: Small Vineyards, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 933-6767

At this point in its young age, this vibrant Amarone sports fresh tones of toasted oak that need more time to integrate. You’ll also get blackberry, cherry, spice and pepper on the nose but the dominant aromas revolve around sweet vanilla and spice. The wine has a soft feel in the mouth, with velvety tannins and enough alcoholic power to keep the palate clean.——M.L.(12/1/2009)—— 89