The 2009 TINTO CAO “CATCHORRO” is another unusual wine from Campolargo—this time, all Tinto Cao, aged for 12 months in oak. Like most of Campolargo’s reds this issue, this has good acidity and a certain earthy note. Hard edged on the finish initially, it has a caressing texture until the tannins take over. It comes around well in an hour or so. It is an interesting monovarietal choice that has some character and substance, although it is a bit compact in terms of mid-palate depth. It has a certain rustic feel to it—if you like that or don’t object at least, it should come in at a pretty good price and drink very well. Although it is hard to display in our “all caps/headline” system, note that it is spelled on the label as “caTchorro.” There were 700 cases produced. Drink now-2017. Campolargo is an interesting winery in Bairrada that presents a less traditional face with its various small production bottlings. Manuel Campolargo makes things that are a bit different than the usual fare—Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Bordeaux blends, unusual monovarietals and the like. Modern Bairrada isn’t just about Baga—although they make one of those, too. The wines often provide some nice value, as evidenced by some of the offerings this issue, and the off-the-beaten-track wines often hit the mark.Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155