The 2009 ESCOLHA, an oak-aged white Loureiro, is a classic Ameal Loureiro—elegant but with subtle intensity, able to age gracefully and improve with air. Revisited several months after my first taste, it has settled down, fleshed out a bit and improved, not what you expect to hear about aging Vinho Verde. Its harmony was always its best point, but if anything that is even better now. Everything is perfectly integrated, most especially including the oak which does not get in the way of transparency here at all. Yet, with air, it continues to improve in the glass and its fine acidity breaks through. If all the best Loureiros are a bit on the elegant and subtle side—these are not “wow” wines as they emphasize precision and transparency--this one has its gentle reticence matched by subtle intensity that keeps it vibrant as it airs out. There were just 4,200 bottles produced. Drink now-2016. Importer: IPO Wines, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 243-9463

This is a rarity —wood-aged Vinho Verde. It works beautifully, the floral flavors of the Loureiro grape balanced with a smooth texture. The green fruit flavors dominate, just broadened by the wood.——R.V.(12/15/2010)—— 92