This Petite Sirah is rustic, in the jagged tannins that tingle and prickle the mouth, and the briary, brambly flavors of sweetly ripe wild berries. But it’s enormously flavorful, with a chocolaty edge to the red and black fruits. The alcohol is gigantic, nearly 16 percent, so although the wine is totally dry, it has a sweet, glycerine taste.——S.H.(11/1/2008)—— 87