(Not yet released)The extraordinary 1998 Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain Vendange Tardive has a mouth-watering nose of candied blood oranges lightly dusted with botrytis-caused spiciness. Creamed red, yellow, and white fruits are interspersed with earth, minerals, and gravel in this complex, concentrated, full-bodied behemoth. Its massive personality is well-buttressed by its superb acidity. Additionally, this muscular yet graceful wine has an unbelievably long finish. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2025. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.