The 2005 Sforzato di Valtellina 5 Stelle is a big, brooding wine loaded with ripe dark fruit, tar, smoke, licorice and sweet toasted oak. Made in a rich, concentrated style, the 5 Stelle offers tons of length and intensity. Still, I am not fully convinced of the balance here. Making Sforzato is challenging, as Chiavennasca already possesses notable tannins. The air drying process, while intensifying the fruit, can also increase the perception of tannin in the wine and the use of French oak adds an additional layer of structure. The wine’s richness, vibrancy and clarity remain impressive though. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. This is a very strong set of wines from Nino Negri, one of the leading producers in Valtellina. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700