Iris and narcissus with apparent site-typicity entice from the glass rim of Wittmanns’ 2011 Westhofener Brunnenhauschen Riesling Grosses Gewachs, along with suggestions of white peach, toasted nuts, and chalk that anticipate this wine’s juicy, rich, remarkably buoyant palate impression. There is an amalgam of marrow-like meatiness; saliva-inducing salinity; subtly nutty and legume-like piquancy; and energetic vivacity to the finish that renders the next sip irresistible. Dynamic and memorably distinct strands inform a shimmering tapestry of impressive complexity in this (alas) rare Riesling, one that I suspect will be worth following for the better part of a decade. It is in every sense finer as well as more differentiated than other Wittmann Rieslings, not to mention felicitously free of bitterness. A new receiving line incorporating a vibrating sorting table is among the latest manifestations of Philipp Wittmann’s continuing drive to render what are already some of the most sought-after wines in Germany steadily better. Any fear that Riesling here might suffer from deficient vivacity or juiciness in 2011 was quickly banished once I began tasting. The last fruit wasn’t picked this year in Morstein until October 17, yet retained a formidable 8.5 grams of acidity, by which point raisined fruit had to be sorted-out. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700