The light gold-colored, waxy, citrusy 1998 Semillon enjoys partial barrel-fermentation, which gives it texture and a touch of well-integrated wood. The wine exhibits loads of fruit and glycerin in addition to a fleshy, chunky, medium to full-bodied, kinky style. Drink it over the next 2-4 years with strongly flavored fish and poultry dishes. A Ted Schrauth Selection, Old Vines Australia, imported by Epic Wines, Santa Cruz, CA; tel. (408) 689-9080, and C. Daniele, New York, NY; tel. (212) 534-3421