I love ostentatious Gewurztraminers, and remain wary of attempts to restrain its gaudy varietal characteristics. The 1997 Gewurztraminer Pfersigberg combines refinement with power. Beguiling aromas of perfume, bergamots (an exotic pear-shaped orange), roses, and honeysuckle lead to a flavorful yet elegant core of cherries, minerals, sweetened Earl Grey tea, and well-ripened white fruits. This medium-to-full-bodied wine has admirable breadth, concentration, and length. While it will last significantly longer given its laudable equilibrium, I suggest drinking it over the next 5 years.Importer: A Peter Vezan Selection, (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-55-42-93), various American importers, including: Barriques Wines, Chicago, IL; tel (773) 275-1200; Dionysus Imports, Lorton, VA; tel (703) 751-9416; North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (800) 266-6585.