Lemon, violet, and chalk dust on the nose of Javillier’s 2007 Corton-Charlemagne lead to a palate with refreshing fruit touched by chalk, honey, nut oils, and the complimentary astringency of lemon pip and peach kernel. This combines formidable sheer density with vivacity and lift, finishing with invigorating length. While nature did not increase the amount of Charmes produced this year, there are all of three and a half barriques (all used once previous) – the largest volume ever – of this beauty. I would anticipate it improving over a number of years and performing brilliantly for a decade. Patrick Javillier began picking on September 3rd, but only finished (with his Savigny) mid-month. He chaptalized lightly, keeping all of the wines under 13%. He thinks his 2007 results capture “the spirit and purity of 1984, but with less acidity, and perhaps a bit that of 1979.” But the wines of Javillier were very different and far less exciting even a dozen years ago than they are today, so in that sense these comparisons are moot. (His favorites for drinking now, by the way, are his 1990s.) And I have never tasted a more impeccably balanced or consistently delicious and intriguing collection at this address than these 2007s. For some general notes on Javillier’s approach to vinification, consult my report in issue 180. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93