At two-plus years this Pinot Noir still is an infant. It’s a swirl of new toasty oak, ripe cherries and currants, acidity and fresh, chunky tannins. It’s a pity that much of it will be opened too young. Should be more harmonious toward the end of 2009, and evolve for many years after.——S.H.(5/1/2009)—— 92