One of the great buys in California Chardonnay is Hobbs’s 2008 Chardonnay Russian River, which offers abundant notes of orange blossoms, tropical fruits, white peaches and a hint of smoky oak. This fleshy, full-bodied Chardonnay exhibits a steely backbone because of good acidity. Enjoy it over the next 2-3 years. The irrepressible Paul Hobbs fashioned a beautiful portfolio of Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays in both 2008 and 2009. His style of Chardonnay comes directly from the Burgundy handbook, meaning cool vineyard sites, full malolactic fermentations, lots of lees contact and the use of well-established clones, such as the old Wente and occasionally some of the newer Dijon clones. The 2009 Chardonnays are slightly more perfumed as well as lower in alcohol. Tel. (707) 824-9879; Fax (707) 824-5843