At about four years of age, Talbott’s ’04 tastes overripe. It has the aromas and flavors of a botrytized, late-harvest Chardonnay, brimming with apricot jam and pineapples, except that it’s bone dry. With the very high acidity, this makes it unbalanced and not entirely enjoyable. This is a bottling that seems to do better in cooler vintages.——S.H.(12/1/2008)—— 85