The 2001 Barolo Vecchie Vigne has lost a lot of its baby fat over the last few years. It is a deep, long effort with dark cherries, licorice, spices, chocolate, tobacco, herbs and menthol that flow from the glass. It possesses notable persistence, yet doesn’t look to be built for the long haul. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. Renato Corino is one of the most passionate producers I know. Always generous with his time and his wines, he embodies all of the qualities of La Morra’s finest artisanal growers. Corino’s new winery is perched atop the Arborina vineyard, just a stone’s throw from his neighbors Mauro Veglio and Elio Altare. These 2003 Barolos are the first Barolos Renato Corino has bottled under his own label. It is impossible to judge a producer from a single vintage, especially when it is as freakish as 2003, but as I note above, it will be interesting to see how the two Corino estates develop over the coming years. For now, these 2003 Barolos lack color, even for Nebbiolo, and don’t appear to be destined for long lives.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411