The 2007 NIKTERI, meaning “night” in Greek, and referencing that it was traditionally pressed at night, is all Assyrtiko, aged in oak for six months. It handles it very well, in case fans of the unoaked Santorinis are wary. There is just a touch of oak on the finish. It is a late picked wine (but dry), made to be somewhat different on many fronts. It comes in at 15% alcohol, which it handles well. It has good body and a feeling of fullness, a little tightness on the finish, a brooding rather than sunny and crisp demeanor. It is an interesting wine, but I suspect many will prefer something more traditional, like this producer’s own Santorini. Drink now-2014. Importer: Trireme Imports, Huntersville, N.C.; tel: (704) 875-1973.