Schrock’s 2007 Grauburgunder was not yet out of barrel when I last tasted it. This is Pinot Gris in an exotically ripe and fruity, yet at the same time refined, subtle, and coolly refreshing key – a personality in part promoted by the absence of malo-lactic transformation in any of the barrels (or at least, so it seemed to the vintner). Peach, baked apple, and lychee in the nose lead to a silken-textured, peachy rich, subtly smoky, toasty palate (the wood adding not taking away) and a savory, enticing finish. This is going to be really interesting to follow for at least 2-3 years and sure to prove adept at table service. Heidi Schrock’s dry white collection from 2007 reflects the precocity and incipient botrytis of the vintage in the wines’ ripeness and amplitude, yet there is a sense of minerality and above all a leavening of fresh fruit acids that her lush, at times heady 2006s lacked. “From the 10th of September, we had gorgeous weather,” she relates, “and we brought everything in quickly.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300