The austere, earthy, herbaceous 1996 Brunello di Montalcino exhibits attractive complexity in the nose, but the vintage's austerity and compressed mouth-feel are apparent. Readers who like their wines on the tougher side will like it more than I did. It should last for a decade.
Importer: Seth Allen, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700