The 2004 Paleo (Cabernet Franc) is an intense, brooding wine imbued with the essence of dark fruit, scorched earth, grilled herbs, toasted oak and licorice. Made in a rich, super-concentrated style, this imposing Paleo will require patience. A second bottle took quite a bit of aeration before the elegance of its silky-textured tannins emerged. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2020. Le Macchiole releases its wines later than most estates on the Tuscan coast, so readers will find the 2004s in the market, while the 2005s are due to arrive this Fall. Proprietor Cinzia Merli and long-time oenologist Luca D-Attoma have turned out a glorious set of 2004s. The 2005 vintage proved to be much more challenging as the damp, fresh growing season made it hard to achieve full ripeness. These are pretty wines, but they aren't quite at the level of the estate's finest efforts. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

This Cabernet Franc is beautiful, with incredible succulence, persistence, heat, power and a full plate of enticing fragrances. Coffee, root beer, chocolate, Nutella, graham cracker and cherry liqueur are only a few elements of the wine’s complexity.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 96