The 2009 Vosne-Romanee Aux Malconsorts comes across as quite cool and introspective. Ultimately that is a great sign for readers who plan on cellaring the wine. Today the Malconsorts is totally closed in on itself. It shows little of the exuberance it did from barrel. Still, from time to time the wine reveals hints of its brilliance and pedigree. The Malconsorts should be dazzling in another few years. Opening a bottle now is only going to be an academic exercise. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. My tasting at Dujac was one of the highlights of the two weeks I spent in Burgundy in late November/early December 2011. I tasted through all the 2010s in barrel and 2009s in bottle. The domaine’s 2009s are among the wines of the vintage. Importers: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724; Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500

All tannins and black fruits, this is a powerful wine. It is tough, very structured, firm and closed up. The acidity dominates the red fruits on the finish. It has immense promise for the long term. ——R.V.(9/1/2011)—— 94