Hamacher's ruby-colored 1999 Pinot Noir will not win any power or extract contests, but it demonstrates that this young winemaker has grasped two of the hallmarks of Pinot. 1) It is a varietal that can achieve exceptional purity, and 2) its texture is paramount. As Hamacher himself stated, "Pinot Noir must have great texture, or else it is nothing." This wine exhibits a nose of extraordinary purity, redolent with fresh red cherries, raspberries, and currants. On the palate, it is sumptuously textured, bringing to mind liquid silk, and coats the taster's mouth with highly detailed sweet red fruit whose flavors linger throughout its admirable long finish. This wine's tannin is well-ripened and barely noticeable. If Hamacher can build more depth and concentration into his wines without losing their sublime purity and texture, he will produce some of the most compelling Pinots on Earth. Drink this wine over the next 10 years. Tel. (503) 985-0120