The 2004 Pinot Noir offers a smoky nose with spice box, tobacco, cassis, black cherry and black raspberry making an appearance. Medium-bodied, the wine has a lean, elegant personality with ample spicy red and black fruits to keep things in balance. The finish is moderately long and pure. Drink it over the next 6-8 years. Eric Hamacher is one of the few producers of Pinot Noir who will not admit to being a terroirist. He states (on his web page) that Oregon’s vineyards are mostly too young and too inconsistent to get locked into specific sites. He feels better wine can be made by careful selection across a number of the Willamette Valley’s districts and by judicious blending.Tel. (503) 852-7200; www.hamacherwines.com. Also tasted: 2006 Rose (89)