The prodigious, opaque purple-colored 2008 Donelan Syrah Griffin’s Lair (100% Syrah, 50% whole clusters) boasts glorious aromas of flowers, blackberry liqueur, lavender, and subtle hints of smoke, tar, and black truffles. This dense, full-bodied, multidimensional, exquisite Syrah requires 2-3 years of cellaring, and should drink well for 15-20. The troubled departure of Pax Mahle as winemaker from this operation owned primarily by Joe Donelan has resulted in a change of name. Coinciding with the 2008s, this is now Donelan Family Wines. The reviews that follow include the 2007s, the last wines produced under the Pax Cellars moniker, with the 2008s to be released under the Donelan Family Wines. Pax Mahle now has his own up-and-coming winery called Wind Gap. One of the most interesting vineyards Donelan has used is the Obsidian Vineyard in Knight’s Valley. This vineyard’s soil resembles black marble, and the result is an extraordinary wine with characteristics that are nearly impossible to articulate.Tel. (707) 592-0782; Fax (707) 591-0784