The 2010 Ataulfos comes from a parcel of 60-year-old Garnacha and is almost Burgundy in hue. It is bestowed with a very complex, understated bouquet that expresses its vineyard character with style, notes of freshly tilled soil, warm granite, Provencal herbs and just a touch of charcoal unfurling with every minute. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine, edgy tannins and superb acidity that is married with that lovely garrigue-tinged, broody fruit. At present, it demonstrates a touch more substance than “The End” with outstanding persistency on the peppery, warm alcoholic finish that you would swear comes from deepest southern Rhone. Excellent. Drink 2014-2020+ If you are seeking Grenache that is understated, complex, full of character and honest without resorting to new oak or ostentation, then look no further than the exquisite and rather brilliant wines of Bodegas Jimenez-Landi, which have rightly been lauded by my predecessors in previous issues. I stand accused of being even more ecstatic about these wines that were riveting earlier this year: wines that stimulate the intellect as much as the senses. Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565; and Indigo Wine www.indigowine.com in the UK.