Wow. This gorgeous dessert-style auslese explodes from the glass in a cavalcade of sweet fruit and spice. Honeyed peaches and dried apricots are most prominent, but shadings of cinnamon and allspice give complexity, while crisp acids provide impeccable balance on the long finish. Delicious now, this wine should easily evolve for up to 40 years. ——J.C.(12/15/2008)—— 96