This Chard is a big step up from the winery’s ’05s. So rich and opulent, it’s almost decadent, but is balanced with dryness, crisp acidity and a bracing minerality, like a tang of granite. Yet it’s the flavors, of pineapples, peach pie, vanilla and cinnamon, that keep you coming back. ——S.H.(2/1/2009)—— 91