The 1996 Cote Rotie is extraordinary. The color is an opaque purple. The spectacular nose of bacon fat, violets, roasted herbs, and black raspberry jam explodes upward from the glass. In the mouth, the wine reveals a plush texture, medium to full body, gorgeous purity, and thrilling levels of extract and fruit. The tannins are present, but the vintage's high acidity is obscured behind the wine's roasted elements and lavish fruit and glycerin. Drink it over the next 15+ years. Importers: Bacchus Importers, tel. (410) 633-0400, Stacole Imports, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029; Martin Scott Wines Ltd., Little Neck, NY; Ventures in Wine, Daly City, CA; Atlantic Importing Co., Newton, MA; Fine Vines, Maywood, IL and all the importers representing the selections of French broker, Patrick Lesec (Paris fax # 011 33 1 44 70 62 93)

The 1996 Cote Rotie appears to be superior to the 1995. The 1996 reveals a high degree of maturity, and less acidity than other northern Rhones. The grapes for this cuvee all came from Cote Brune vineyards, particularly Les Grandes Places and La Landonne. The wine includes a small percentage of Viognier in the blend, although I did not detect it in the aromatics or flavors. It exhibits a deep ruby/purple color, with an olive, cassis, and smoky-scented nose, lush, ripe, medium to full-bodied flavors, sound acidity, and a plush, succulent, velvety-textured finish. This wine should be forward for a Cote Rotie, and last for 10-15 years.As a postscript, readers should be aware that all the Tardieu-Laurent wines reviewed in this segment are very reasonably priced.A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42843822), various American importers