Dominique Lafon consults on these wines, sourced from a vineyard now almost 30 years old. Evening Land is among the wineries who sense an opportunity to make refined, elegant wines from the terroir of this little-known region. Lovely aromas, complex scents and flavors, pine and herb, cranberry and raspberry, earth and seafoam—lots of nuances here. ——P.G.(6/1/2010)—— 93