Tart plum skin and smoky black tea inform the firmly-textured Camille Giroud 2006 Savigny-les-Beaune Les Peuillets. Fascinating mineral allusions and rich meatiness add depth, and there is a savory intensity to the finish that over-rides any tendency toward rusticity of tannin such as is flirted with by a number of the wines in this collection. The vines are not especially old here, relates Croix, but they yielded a mere 30 hectoliters per hectare. This seriously concentrated Savigny should be worth following for 4-6 years.
David Croix racked his 2006s into tank earlier than normal in an attempt to preserve the maximum of fruit. (For details about the recent revival of Camille Giroud and about David Croix's approach, readers are referred to reports in issues 160 and 170 respectively. A Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs was too reduced from tank when I last tasted it to adequately access, but it definitely displayed potential and reflected its old vines of a tiny-berried selection; while a Clos Vougeot from purchased fruit was stuck in protracted malo.)
A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70